The Grand Bay sweeps away from the port area along a colourful tree lined beach that retains much of the charm of colonial Portuguese architecture but also with a strong British influence. This morning as I strolled along the local fishermen were cleaning their catch on the Praia de Cacherros (Dogs Beach) – aptly named with many mongrel dogs asleep on the drying fishing nets or searching for scraps of fish. Unfortunately there are large groups of wild dogs that freely roam the town – many with three legs as testament no doubt to lost battles with traffic although a number of the dogs I saw used the pedestrian crossings!!
One fisherman was busy loading up a wheelbarrow of mackerel for sale in the town. I saw him several times during the morning but his barrow never seemed to empty just to get smellier!!
Cape Verde is very much a multicultural heritage with many Portuguese and African influences. Most inhabitants’ today are of mixed ethnic origin. The official language is Portuguese but for day-to-day conversation Creole is spoken.
Since my last visit in March 2012 a great deal has been done to improve the facilities and to renovate buildings. The streets bustle with life and colour and there are legions of small shops but you need a torch to see what you are buying since electricity is in short supply! The Governor’s Palace has recently ben restored and painted pink!! A sometime presidential palace it is an object of civil pride.
Similarly the Torre de Belem, an ornate little castle on the bay, that was at one time the seat of Portuguese administrator before being abandoned prior to independence in 1975. The tower that stands today is a replica of the original.
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