Nestled at the foot of Mount Moses, where Moses received the Ten Commandments, lies the Monastery of St Catherine’s. A Greek Orthodox Monastery, it was built by order of the Emperor Justinian between 527 & 565 AD and is believed to be the oldest continually inhabited monastery in the world.
Tradition has it that this was where God spoke to Moses through the burning bush. Today it is still occupied by Greek Orthodox Monks. The monastery is named after a young Christian from Alexandria, who died as a Martyr in the 4th Century. The legend tells that her body was miraculously found on the peak of Mount Moses, which today is known as Mount Katherina, the highest point in the Sinai at 2,637 metres.
The words of the Archbishop of Sinai – Damainos – in the Foreword to ‘The Monastery of St Catherine at the God Trodden Mountain – Sinai. 2004, E Papaionnou, Holy Sinai Monastery Publications – amply sums up the sanctity and spiritual importance of this place by recording that the Founder of Islam, the Arab Caliphs, the Turkish Sultans and even Napoleon all placed the monastery under their protection thus ensuring that it has never suffered serious damage or looting. It has, therefore, retained its integrity as a sacred biblical site through the continuous “adoration and worship of Our Lord Jesus Christ and of the Mother of God”.
The chapel is simply beautiful (No photography allowed) – full of decoration and carvings, a simple cross and that ambience of prayer and devotion that is created by burning incense. Although ornate it is in a dignified manner and not so vibrant as you find in many churches – especially of the catholic persuasion.
It was a real moment of calm to stand in this chapel before moving outside to view the ‘Burning Bush’ that is said to have flourished in this spot since the time of Moses and no other spot despite attempts to propagate it.
We also had an opportunity to visit the Monastery Museum that has a magnificent collection of iconography – mainly tempera (A method of painting with pigments dispersed in an emulsion miscible with water, typically egg yolk) on wood – dating from the 10th Century as well as some sumptuously embroidered vestments.
This museum reminded me of a visit to the Seminary at Zagorsk – north of Moscow - the Russian equivalent of Canterbury, except that it has 7 onion domed winter cathedrals crammed into a couple of acres – in 1990. I have a book at home of the icons in that seminary museum which are breath taking in their detail and richness. I also remember the hair standing up on the nape of my neck as I entered one of the incense filled cathedra and heard Gregorian chanting!
The St Catherine’s Monastery closes at 11.45am so that the monks can continue their devotions. We stayed for a further hour to enjoy a magnificent meal in a building within the monastery grounds – the funds raised helping to maintain the monastery and the 33 monks including one from Britain in their devotions.
It was a quiet and contemplative trip back to ship after another very interesting and rewarding day.
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